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Bracketing
webmaster @ January 6, 2009
thanks
And... just to cover all bases... this is more important yet when shooting reversal film (transparency, or slides). The latitude of negative film is pretty good, so adjustments up to a full stop and more can be made in printing. I suggest a 1/3 stop, + and -, bracket with transparency film, except in Alaska where you can just lick you finger and hold it in the wind to determine a perfect exposure. (So sorry, Chase.... I couldn't resit.)
I think my digital Canon's will do this automatically... auto exposure bracketing.
Thanks, I needed my chuckle for the day.
A good example of providing another "feature" with just a few lines of code in the firmware. Image quality brackeing. I don't know what I ever did without it.
There are times when a photographer is not certain of the best exposure for a given subject. This may be due to a situation where the range of brightnesses [shadows to highlights] may exceed the capabilities of the film, or where the exposure of a specific subject is difficult to determine [multiple filters, IR film, etc.]
When this happens, the photographer may take exposures a stop or two on either side of the 'best guess' exposure. This results in at least one negative which is the best that can be achieved for the scene.
Think of it as an exposure 'insurance policy'. You pay in advance with extra film to insure a good negative.
Less common is flash bracketing where the flash will fire to fill different exposure values (only really useful if you have a strong and fast charging flash or a model that stands still for a while) and whitebalance bracketing which is good if you do not know what whiteblance your lightsource will be from one photo to the next and Auto is failing.
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